Greece's longtime rival is Turkey. The two countries have quarreled for years. Turkey accuses Greece of financing the rebel Kurdistan Workers' Party (PKK) and other Kurdish rebel groups, which have been seeking independence from Turkey for some years. Greece repeatedly denies the accusations. The two countries often dispute over Aegean island territories. In January, 1996 Greek and Turkish warships faced off with each other over an Aegean islet which each country claims is theirs. The Greeks call it Imia, and the Turks, Kardak. The crisis was averted through US-led diplomatic efforts. In April 1998, Turkey rejected Greece's claim of sovereignty over several other uninhabited islets in the Aegean Sea and reiterated that the status of those islets will have to be decided through negotiations between Turkey and Greece. Most recently, Greece vetoed a bill for the EU to give funds to Turkey, claiming that fellow EU members were not showing sufficient solidarity with Greece in its efforts to solve territorial disputes with Turkey, which is not an EU member.

Cyprus is another island that is a bone of contention between the two countries. The self-acclaimed Turkish Cypriot state in northern Cyprus, which is only recognized by Ankara, has threatened integration with Turkey if the shipment of Russian missiles promised to be delivered to the Greek Cypriot government by the end of 1998 is not stopped. Greece backs the Greek Cypriot government; the two are inseparable allies. Defacing of one another's ethnic monuments and property often occurs on the island. More seriously, in June 1996, Turkish soldiers shot and killed a young Greek soldier who crossing the "no-man's land" between the Greek and Turkish portions of the island to barter some small items. The Turks claimed the soldier was armed.

Terrorism

Small-scale terrorist attacks, usually carried out by ultra-leftist groups and anarchists, are common. Such attacks generally target premises related to the state and the controversial privatisation process. Diplomatic vehicles and premises and foreign businesses are targeted to a lesser extent. The security risk for business overall is low, as most attacks occur at night and are designed to cause damage rather than injury. However, terrorists are prepared to cause casualties. They stage occasional assassinations.

Border Disputes

Relations with Turkey improved in 1999 as both countries provided emergency assistance to one another following the earthquakes in Athens and Izmit (Turkey) in August and September 1999. This 'earthquake diplomacy' led to a series of bilateral talks on closer economic and security cooperation and in December 1999 Greece supported the EU's decision to nominate Turkey as a potential candidate for EU membership once it has effected necessary political and ecoomic reforms. However, the ongoing dispute over Cyprus and territorial of Aegean islands may still increase tensions with Turkey. Although flare-ups of tension and armed stand-offs with Turkey may continue, the improved relations between Prime Minister Costas Simitis and Turkish Prime Minister Bulent Ecevit should prevent any military conflict.

Cultural Note

While in Athens or any Greek city, visitors are advised to take the same precautions as they would in any other foreign city. Visitors should be aware of their surroundings at all times and avoid travel alone at night. While on the islands or in other high tourist areas, visitors are advised to carry limited amounts of cash and credit cards, and to secure all valuables properly as pickpocketing, purse snatching, luggage theft, and mugging does occur.

Crime against tourists (purse-snatchings, pickpocketing) appears to be on the rise at popular tourist sites and on crowded public transportation, particularly in Athens. The usual safety precautions practiced in any urban area ought to be practiced during a visit to Greece.

Corruption

Air

Heraklion International Airport (HER) (Crete) is 5km (3 miles) from the city. Bus and taxi services are available. Airport facilities include a cafeteria and a duty-free shop. Thessaloniki International Airport (SKG) (Micra) is 16km (10 miles) from the city. Regular coach and taxi services are available. There is a duty-free shop, cafeteria and bar. Corfu International Airport (CFU) (Kerkira) is 3km (2 miles) from the city. Regular coach and taxi services are available. There is a duty-free shop, cafeteria and bar. Rhodes International Airport (RHO) (Paradisi) is 16km (10 miles) from the city. Coach and taxi services are available. Airport facilities include a duty-free shop, car hire (Avis, Rent-a- car), bank and bureau de change, café and a 24-hour bar.

There are also international airports at Chania (CHQ), Kalamata (KLX), Karpathos (AOK), Kavala (KVA), Kefalonia (EFL), Kos (KGS), Lesbos (Mytilini) (MJT), Mykonos (JMK), Preveza (Aktion) (PVK), Salonika (SKG), Samos (SMI), Skiathos (JSI), Thira (Santorini) (JTR) and Zakynthos (ZTH), most of which predominately serve summer traffic.

The national airline, Olympic Airways (OA), has its own terminal (Athens West) and flies domestically from Athens to Alexandroupolis, Chania (Crete), Chios, Heraklion, Ioannina, Kalamata, Kassos, Kastelorica, Kastoria, Kavala, Kefaloniá, Kerkira (Corfu), Kos, Kozani, Kithira, Larissa, Leros, Memnos, Mytilini, Milos, Mykonos, Paros, Preveza Aktion, Pyrgos, Rhodes, Samos, Santorini (Thira), Skiathos, Sitia, Skiros, Siros, Thessaloniki, Volos and Zakinthos; from Rhodes to Heraklion, Karpathos, Kassos, Kastelorico, Kos, Leros, Mykonos, Paros, Sitia and Santorini (Thira); from Chios to Mykonos, Samos and Thessaloniki; from Heraklion to Santorini (Thira), Mykonos and Paros; from Karpathos to Kassos and Sitia; from Kefaloniá to Zakinthos; from Kerkira to Kefaloniá, Preveza and Zakinthos; from Kos to Leros and Samos; from Mykonos to Mytilini; and from Thessaloniki to Chania, Heraklion, Ioannina, Kos, Larissa, Lemnos, Mytilini, Rhodes, Samos and Skiathos.

SeaRiver

A car ferry links the Italian ports of Brindisi and Ancona with Patras and Piraeus. There are services from Igoumenitsa to Bari, Brindisi and Trieste; Heraklion to Ancona and Brindisi; Corfu to Bari, Brindisi and Trieste; Rhodes to Ancona. Ferries also run from Piraeus to Alexandria in Egypt, to Haifa in Israel and to Istanbul in Turkey. During the summer months there are also services between Ithaca to Brindisi and Cephalonia to Brindisi. A subsidiary of DFDS operates a scheduled car-ferry service from Alexandria (Egypt) via Heraklion to Patras and on to Ancona.

It is both cheap and easy to travel around the islands. There are ferry services on many routes, with sailings most frequent during the summer. Tickets can be bought from the shipping lines' offices located around the quaysides. In major ports the larger lines have offices in the city center. There are three classes of ticket (First class, Second class and Tourist Class) which offer varying degrees of comfort; couchette cabins can be booked for the longer voyages or those wishing to avoid the sun. Most ships have restaurant facilities. During high season it is wise to buy tickets well in advance, as inter-island travel is very popular.

Ferry routes carry regular sailings from Piraeus to the following ports:

Dodecanese: Astipalaia, Chalki, Kalymnos, Karpathos, Kassos, Kos, Leros, Nissiros, Symi, Patmos, Rhodes and Tilos.

Cyclades: Ägiali and Katapola (both on Amorgos), Anafi, Donoussa, Folegandros, Heraklia, Ios, Kimolos, Santorini, Kythnos, Koufonissia, Milos, Naxos, Mykonos, Paros, Schinoussa, Serifos, Sifnos, Sikinos, Syros and Tinos.

Peloponnese (car ferries only): Ägina, Gytheion, Hermioni, Hydra, Kithira, Methana, Monemvassia, Poros, Porto Heli and Spetses.

Crete: Agios Nikolaos, Chania, Heraklion, Kastelli, Rethymnon and Sitia.

Samos: Karlovassi and Vathi.

Other destinations: Agios Kirykos (Ikaria), Evdilos (Ikaria), Chios, Kastelorizo, Kavala (Macedonia), Limnos, Lipsi, Mitilini (Lesbos), Psara, Rhodes, Symi and Thessaloniki.

Check sailing times either with individual lines, the National Tourist Organization of Greece, or in Piraeus upon arrival in Greece.

From Rafina (near Athens) there are local services to: Amorgos, Andros, Chalkida (Euboea), Chios, Donoussa, Heraklia, Karistos (Euboea), Kavala, Koufonissi, Kythnos, Limnos, Marmari (Euboea), Milos, Mykonos, Naxos, Paros, Schinoussa, Serifos, Sifnos, Syros, Thessaloniki and Tinos.

Other routes include: Agia Marina-Nea Styra; Perama-Salamis; Rio-Antirio; Aedipsos-Arkitsa; Eretria-Oropos; Glifa-Agiokambos; Patras-Ithaca; Patras-Sami; Patras-Corfu; Patras-Paxi; Preveza-Aktion; Igoumenitsa-Corfu; Corfu-Paxi; Kyllini-Zante; Kyllini-Cephalonia (Poros); Kavala-Thassos (Limenas); Kavala- Thassos (Prinos); Keramoti-Thassos; and Alexandroupolis-Samothrace.

A hydrofoil service (the 'Flying Dolphins') offers a fast and efficient service from Piraeus, travelling throughout the islands. Although this is slightly more expensive than travelling by ferry, journey times are cut drastically. There are also fast hydrofoil services from Zea Marina, Lavrio, Agios Konstandinos, Volos, Kimi (Euboea), Thessaloniki and Gytheion. For further information, contact the Flying Dolphins, Tel: (1) 922 7772 or 322 4197. Numerous types of yachts and sailing vessels can be chartered or hired with or without crews. 'Flotilla holidays' are popular, and the GNTO has a full list of companies running this type of holiday.

Rail

Acropolis Express: London-Paris-Milan-Trieste-Belgrade-Athens.

Hellas Express: London-Amsterdam-Cologne-Bonn-Stuttgart-Munich-Salzburg-Zagreb*- Belgrade*-Nis*-Athens.

Interail tickets, for those aged 26 and under, include rail travel within Greece, but a supplement will be added for couchettes; the ticket does not include the cost of ferries between other countries or islands, but certain shipping lines offer a discount to ticket holders. The Eurailpass (for first- class travel) and the Eurailpass Youthpass (for persons aged 26 and under) also cover rail travel in Greece. The Saver Ticket is available for groups of 3-5 persons, which is valid for 15 days, 21 days or 1 month. Check with the companies concerned for details.

Domestically, there are two main railway stations in Athens: Larissa (with trains to Northern Greece, Evia and Europe) and Peloponnissos (with trains to the Peloponnese). North: Regular daily trains from Athens to Thessaloniki, Thebes, Livadia, Paleofarsala, Larissa, Plati, Edessa, Florina, Seres, Drama, Komotini, Halkida and Alexandroupolis (connections from Thessaloniki and Larissa). South: Athens to Corinth, Xylokastra, Patras, Mycenae, Olympia, Argos, Tripoli, Megalopolis and Kalamata. Cheap fares: 20% rebate on return fares. Touring cards lasting 10, 20 and 30 days entitle the holder to unlimited travel on trains (second class) for a reduced cost (further reductions for groups). Prices depend on the number of passengers and duration of validity. Other reductions available for passengers residing outside Europe, include Eurailpass and Eurail Youthpass cards. Senior Cards: Entitle passengers to a 50% reduction on rail travel. The cards are valid for one year. Group Tickets: Entitle passengers to a 30% reduction for groups of at least 10 persons.

Road

Buses link Athens and all main towns in Attica, northern Greece and the Peloponnese. Service on the islands depends on demand, and timetables should be checked carefully. Some islands do not allow any kind of motorized transport, in which case islanders use boats, or donkeys and carts to travel around; these are also worth finding out about. Fares are cheap. Hellenic State Railways (OSE) run bus services to northern Greece from the Karolou Street terminus and to the Peloponnese from the Sina Street station. Taxi rates are per km and are very reasonable, with extra charge for fares to/from stations, ports and airports. Taxis run on a share basis, so do not be surprised if the taxi picks up other passengers for the journey. There is an additional charge from 0100- 0600, with double fare from 0200-0400.

The minimum age for driving is l7. Children under 10 must sit in the back seat. Seat belts must be worn. There are fines for breaking traffic regulations. The maximum speed limit is 100kmph (60mph) on motorways, 80kmph (49mph) outside built-up areas and 50kmph (31mph) in built-up areas. There are slightly different speed limits for motorbikes. It is illegal to carry spare petrol in the vehicle. EU nationals may import a foreign-registered car, caravan, motorcycle, boat or trailer for a maximum of six months.

A national driving license is acceptable for EU nationals. EU nationals taking their own cars to Greece must obtain a Green Card, to top up the insurance cover to that provided by the car owner's domestic policy. It is no longer a legal requirement for visits of less than three months, but without it, insurance cover is limited to the minimum legal cover in Greece. The car registration documents have to be carried at all times. Nationals of non-EU countries may need an International Driving Permit and should contact ELPA. ELPA (Grecian Automobile Touring Club) has organized a road assistance service on main roads, conditions of which have vastly improved. There are good repair shops in big towns and petrol is easily obtainable.

Note: Visitors to Greece must be prepared to drive defensively as Greece has the third highest fatal accident rate in Europe. Heavy traffic and rough terrain on the islands make motorbikes especially dangerous. The majority of foreign citizen traffic casualties in Greece have involved motorbikes. Owners of rental motorbikes are not required to carry insurance coverage; the renter is liable for damages caused to the rental vehicle and to property of third parties.

Hotels

Furnished rooms in private houses, service flats, apartments and villas are available. On most of the Greek islands, rooms in private homes are an extremely popular form of accommodation and can usually be arranged on the spot. All types of accommodation can be arranged through tour operators in this country.

There are traditional settlements and hostels on Makrinitsa (Pilion), Vizitsa (Pilion), Milies (Pilion), Ia (Santorini), Mesta (Chios), Psara Island, Areopolis (Mani), Vathia (Mani), Papingo (Epirus), Koriskades (Central Greece), Monemvasia (Peloponnese) and Gythion (Peloponnese) which offer single, double or triple bedrooms with shower, or a 4-bed house. There are over 25 youth hostels throughout the country. There is also a wide network of official campsites.

Note: Tourist police in the main tourist destinations of Greece are specially trained to assist visitors with accommodation, maps, timetables, details of places to visit or special events. All wear flag badges denoting which language (s) they are able to speak; do not hesitate to ask for help.

BBC World Service frequencies are MHz 12.10 9.410 6.195. A service for the Greek islands is available on 1323kHz/226.7m. Voice of America frequencies are MHz 9.760 6.040 1.197 0.792. From time to time these change